Lost Arrow Chimney, 2001.06.01


about "Lost Arrow Chimney" route


While Toshie and I climbed only the tip of Lost Arrow Spire on May 31, Shin-ichiro and Ryoko climbed the whole Lost Arrow Chimney from the bottom of the valley. They bivouaced at the base of the route on the night of May 30 and started to climb the Chimney early next morning. We thought we (the two parties, 4 of us) could meet on the top of the Chimney (means the Notch) by 3 p.m., but they hadn't shown up by 5 p.m. We thought they might have retreated back to the Valley and so we decided to head back to Camp 4 to meet them. They didn't return to Camp 4 that night.

Early morning of June 1, Toshie and I searched the wall with binoculars and found a haul bag attached with a red rope, same color as mine which I let them use. No one was around the haul bag. We thought they might be in big trouble. So we went back to the Valley and contacted "Search and Rescue", a part of the Park Rangers . Rescue, though, already knew two people were climbing the Chimney and showed us the climbers on the route through a telescope and we could identify Shin-ichiro and Ryoko. They were still climbing on the route from the Notch to the rim. We thanked the rescue people and hurried up carrying a lot of water, juice, and two more ropes to the top near Yosemite Point. It's a hike up to over 800 m.

By the time we reached to Yosemite Point, they had almost finished climbing to the top. It was 2 p.m. They were very tired. They hadn't had any water from the evening before and were desperately thirsty. While they were hauling the bag up the day before, the bag smashed against the wall and the last bottle of water was broken and they lost the rest of their water. They managed to climbed out from the chimney to the Notch at about 7 in the evening (May 31) and they were too exhausted to climb anymore that day and there they spent a second night on the wall. Ironically, Upper Yosemite Fall was closeby but they couldn't reach it for water. Two precious apples were saved for breakfast but squirrels living on the wall, ate the apples during the night. Climbing the last three pitches from Notch to the rim was especially difficult without any water in the scorching heat.

We are grateful to NPS Search and Rescue for their help.


Click each photo, for a larger view.

2001.06.01
01 02 03
Upper Yosemite Fall basin of the fall the base of "Lost Arrow
Chimney"
04 05 06
Upper Yosemite Fall and
Lost Arrow (right)
"Chimney" is in the
shadows
around Yosemite Point
07 08 09
The end of route
"Exit from the Notch"
Pulling up their haul bag Lost Arrow Spire is
visible
10 11 12
view of the Village
from Yosemite Point
after three days of climbing haul bag, Shin-ichiro,
Ryoko
10 11
worn out tape heading back to Camp 4

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